- 6 gramos de polvo (bieromato)
- 1 libra de emulsion
Works on polyesters.
It's a petroleum product, so you can stretch it.
Cures at 320/330 degrees F for up to 10 to 20 seconds/one minute. Heat gun, conveyor, or Flash dryer.
Needs chemical solvent to clean it out of the screen (soap and water doesn't work). But you don't need to clean it, you can leave it and it doesn't dry. But recommended cleaning the image area, because it does chunk up even if it doesn't dry.
You can ‘flash dry it.' That means gelling (done rather than curing so that the various ink passes cure together) the ink at about 260 degrees. Then stack more color on top. When you stack ink, you want ‘off contact’ The screen sits 1/8th or 1/4 above, to allow the thick ink to sit on the screen.
It cures at 320. It bonds. If the ink is thick, it needs time to penetrate, because it all needs to reach that temp. With a flash drier (machine). Use a laser temp gun to check the surface (350 means the base is probably 320). If, after you cool it a bit, when you stretch it, it doesn't crack, that means it's cured. If it cracks it's not cured.
30 seconds at 350, been told.
You can add ‘curable reducer’ Add a little, reduce opacity, runnier and therefore easier to print, but this is for grey or lighterish. For black you want the full body of the plastisol.
CURING with a heat gun. White takes longer than black. White is thick and reflects light.
Termómetro infrarrojo digital 50 - 70k
Rango de temperatura/rango de medición: -50 ~ 330 ° (-58 ~ 626 °)
Potencia: 2 pilas AAA (Incluidas)
pistola de calor 70k - 100k - 170k (brand)
min mesh count for lines per inch you're doing. Take lines per inch you're doing (eg 55) X 4.5. It would be 250 minimum mesh count.
light source - print - screen covered in emulsion which has dried. usually takes about a minute (midday sunlight). (12 minutes in flourescent lighting in the house.)
flourescent lights don't have a lot of UV but do have UV.
Soak for 30 minutes.
wash out the exposure on the screen From the Outside with powerwasher. Or it might blow out the screenprint image. Wet on both sides, or use a dip tank after exposing a screen (avoids inconsistencies). Can use brush or sponge.
optionally, can use an air gun to dry it, better than newspaper or something.
dry it outside in the sun ('post exposure process' ‘post hardening’). It will make the stencil more durable. Or use a fan, but it doesn't post harden.
Can be done with garden hose and emulsion remover, but slow.
Teflon sheets protect the heat source from getting paint on them
OR full color DTF printing
Servicio de impresiosn DTF
photo emulsion sheets, in a screenprinting kit
put down black surface, then screen, then transparency, then light
12 min flourescent lights indoors or 1 min midday sun
soak in water 30 minutes
wash out with a brush or sponge
painters tape to put on shirt
vinyl cricut method
transfer tape to transfer the design
just burnish with hands, not squeegy, because you don't want the vinyl to get too stuck to the transfer tape
Might want a roller
might want tweezers (to go back and fix what peels when you peel off the sticker)
dot stickers for aligning screen to fabric
when you stick the sticker to the screen, you can burnish with squeegy as well.
remove tape at 180 degrees